Fujifilm Australia

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Through a Photographer’s Eye: Joe Jongue

Through a photographer’s eye is the first in a series of interviews featuring Australian photographers. In each interview, we learn about the person behind the camera and how they use Fujifilm X Series cameras to photograph the world around them. Our tenth interview is with Melbourne based photographer, Joe Jongue.

Joe, can you tell us about yourself and what sparks your creativity and gets you out shooting?

 

Like some people, my hobbies and passion for things always change with the wind. However, photography was never on that list, even though my grandfather was a professional photographer in his time (I still have his vintage C.P. Goerz Berlin Dagor lens).

 

The first camera I purchased was the (then stylish) Sony Cybershot T1 back in 2001 when compact ‘happy-snaps’ were in. Fast forward to 2013 which was when my interest and passion for photography began. After briefly using a friend’s Canon 650D, I went out the next week and purchased my own, and the rest was history.

 

It took two years for me to identify and develop my shooting style, it was around this time when I also developed an interest in Street Photography. What sparks my creativity when I’m out shooting is my gut instinct, I go with the flow, if I feel it, then I’ll shoot it, if I only manage one keeper at the end of the day, it’s a good day.

 

What do you photograph with and what gear do you like to take with you when you’re out photographing? 

 

I enjoy shooting Street Photography, anything that is candid and raw. So when I’m out and about, I carry my Fujifilm X-T20 mounted with the XF35mmF2 everywhere I go. It’s a perfect little lens when combined with the smaller body of the X-T20 and the Auto-Focus speed on it is fast enough to capture candid moments while producing tack sharp images in the process. I never leave home without it.

 

 

Can you tell us about the Facebook community you orchestrate and explain why the community is important in the field of photography? 

 

After my transition from DSLR to Fujifilm Mirrorless, there weren’t many support communities around, many of the group’s on Facebook posed as a dumping ground for unboxing photos of other people’s gear, there was little interaction between members of the group. So my good friend, Antonio Colaiacovo (whom I shared the journey of transitioning from DSLR to Fujifilm with), decided to start our own community group, Fujifilm X Australia Photographers Facebook Group.

 

 

What do you look for in a photo and do you worry about composition, lighting or focus? 

 

I enjoy black & white photos, I’m a big fan of leading lines and will always try and incorporate these into my images as I compose for a shot. I find that having a leading line in the scene can sometimes help frame and compose the shot for you than not having one. In terms of lighting, as opposed to most photographers who will try and seek out the ‘Golden’ hour for natural lighting and avoid the harsh 12 o’clock sun, I, on the other hand, prefer this, it creates more defined shadows and can often help create leading lines in situations that would not normally allow.

 

 

If you have some advice for someone starting out in photography what would it be? 

 

Don’t be caught up in the gear, just go out and shoot. Don’t be afraid to step out of your comfort zone; chances are, you may be good in a particular genre than you may think. Join a local photography community, be open to advice and more importantly, interact with other photographers.

 

How did you find out about Fujifilm X Series cameras and what made you choose the model you shoot with? 

 

I first came across the Fujifilm X Series when I was searching for an alternative solution to my encumbering DSLR set up. Before making the full transition, I purchased the compact Fujifilm X30 as it had the same sensor and processor as the X-T1. I immediately fell in love with the colours and clarity of its JPEG quality; the film simulation was also a bonus; however, I was still on the fence and needed a little more convincing. About two years ago I participated in the Global 500px Photo Walk hosted by Fujifilm Australia, it was my opportunity to ask some questions around areas of concern, but more so I had the chance to try the X-T1.

The very next week I sold all my DSLR gear and made a full transition over to Fujifilm and am now fully invested. I now shoot with the X-T20, I chose this over the more popular X-T2 because of the small size and light weight body but mainly because it was almost identical to the X-T2, I was happy without the extra features offered by X-T2, and it suited my style of shooting.

 

Can you tell us the story behind your favourite photo you have captured using an X Series camera? 

 

One of my favourite photos was the one taken of a man walking in the middle of the tram tracks; the shot was taken on Bourke St Mall, Melbourne using the Fujifilm X30 during the busy afternoon rush hour. What makes this special is that this particular street is usually busy with pedestrians crossing from all directions while trams run up and down the street at regular intervals.

While I was framing this shot, the intention was to capture the tram tracks leading up the hill to the horizon. However, while standing in the middle of the tram tracks, I could hear a tram approaching from behind, I wanted to move out the way but my gut instinct convinced me otherwise, and that’s when I noticed a man walking into my frame. I paused a moment even though the tram behind was honking for me to move, once the man was in the centre of the frame I took the shot and moved out the way for the oncoming tram. The end result would not have been possible if I had moved and not listened to my gut instinct.

 

What’s one photography tip you have learned from someone else that you would like to pass on to the greater audience?

 

Just because you have a fast prime i.e. F1.2 doesn’t mean you must shoot wide open, each lens has a sweet spot, understanding the aperture range can mean the difference between a tack sharp image and a blurry one.

To view more of Joe’s work visit his site or visit any of his profile on Facebook or Instagram.

Editors Note: Fujifilm Australia does not endorse photographing while standing on train or tram tracks.

Other interviews in this series

Through A Photographer’s Eye: Drew Hopper

Through A Photographer’s Eye: Alamby Leung

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Ian Tan

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Dale Rogers

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Josselin Cornou

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Chris Hopkins

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Anirban Chatterjee

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Harmeet Gabha

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Benjamin Lee

10 Tips for Better Wildlife Pictures

Struggling to catch the near-perfect wildlife shots you have seen in top magazines and exhibits? Now that camera technology has become more accessible, many people are branching out into nature. Wildlife photography isn’t for the faint of heart, however, and plenty of professionals and enthusiasts alike encounter challenges.

Photo by Ben Cherry (@benji_cherry), Fujifilm X-T2 with XF100-400mmF4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lens

Fortunately, with the right equipment, research and mindset — and of course, plenty of practice — you can make major improvements. The following are 10 tips you can use to take better wildlife pictures today.

 

Study Your Subject

 

What kinds of environments do your local fauna love most? Which animals live within driving distance, and what are their migratory patterns and schedules? Will your subjects even be awake when you go to shoot? Wildlife photography is all about catching those fleeting moments that most people never get to see, and being there at the right time and place is a numbers game. Study your subject matter to give yourself the best chance of being in position for a great shot.

 

Stand Back, Zoom In

 

Animals are tough enough to shoot in urban environments; in nature, they can seem impossible to catch up close. To capture wildlife acting as naturally and unafraid as possible, you may need to rely on a long telephoto lens. When dealing with the most skittish creatures, the longer the focal length, the better.

Photo by Vincent Yuhiko, Fujifilm X-T1 with XF18-135mm R LM OIS WR lens

Broaden Your Horizons

 

As helpful as a long, narrow focus can be, you don’t always need to catch creatures up close — nor do you need to isolate them from their environments. Some shots are actually more powerful when taken with a wide angle that gives the viewer context. Experiment with both broad and narrow focuses to see which suits your tastes and subject matter. You’ll probably find that different shots are best for different situations.

 

Practice Patience

 

Nature is unpredictable. Even if you rigorously study the animal you want to shoot, you’ll probably have to play the waiting game once you get into position. In fact, patience is one of the defining factors of a great wildlife photographer, and some of the most iconic shots have only been possible after hours or even days of waiting and returning to the same spot.

Photo by Vinh Le (@mylittledistraktions), Fujifilm X-M1

Don’t Wait for Every Opportunity

 

At the same time, patience isn’t everything. You can’t always wait for great shots to materialise, especially when you only have a small window of decent lighting and weather. If your only goal is to capture a specific animal in a specific moment, then yes, you’ll need to wait. But if you just want to capture interesting shots within an environment, make the most of your time and seek out opportunities for great shots.

 

Simplify Your Backgrounds

 

Photography is all about using depth and contrast to highlight your subject, and wildlife photography is no exception. While some photos will be inherently “busy,” you can often create a dramatic effect by simply capturing an animal against a non-distracting background.

Photo by Daniel Bradford (@dbrad1992), Fujifilm X-T1

 

Keep Both Eyes Open

 

When you control neither your environment nor your subject matter, you’ve got to be ready for anything. To stay aware of your surroundings, keep both eyes open as you look through the viewfinder. If you’re only focused on what’s in the frame, you’ll miss far more opportunities than you see.

 

Focus and Exposure

 

A few setting tweaks can make all the difference between a clear shot and an indecipherable photo. If your camera allows, set your focus mode to “continuous” and your focus area to “zone.” Use a larger grid setting for larger animals and a smaller setting for small subjects. As for exposure, you’ll want to choose a small area for a shot that emphasises the subject and de-emphasizes the background.

Photo by Nina Dos Santos, Fujifilm X-T1 with XF27mmF2.8 R

Know Your Equipment

 

During a daylong shoot, you’ll encounter — at best — mere minutes of photo-worthy material. What’s more, each moment of interest may only last a few seconds. If you’re not familiar with the capabilities and settings of your camera and lens, you could miss once-in-a-lifetime shots. Know your equipment’s shutter speeds, memory card speeds and focal lengths, as well as all the options you have for toggling focus points and modes.

 

(Perfect) Practice Makes Perfect!

 

Last but not least, practice, practice, practice! Analyse the shots you take, and consult experienced photographers for advice on how you can improve. The more hours you can spend, the better you’ll become, but you can fast-track your progress by seeking feedback and making the most of each shot you take.

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Benjamin Lee

Through a photographer’s eye is the first in a series of interviews featuring Australian photographers. In each interview, we learn about the person behind the camera and how they use Fujifilm X Series cameras to photograph the world around them. Our ninth interview is with Sydney based photographer, Benjamin Lee.

Benjamin, tell us about yourself and how photography has impacted your life.

Photography has played a huge role in my life, shifting the direction of my career and lifestyle. Just over two years ago, I was working a regular, boring office job straight out of university. I wasn’t even working in a role I went to university for. The pay was great and steady, which made it hard to break out of that comfort zone. I finally built up the courage, and just quit on a whim. I knew I had enough savings to not worry too much.

I knew I wanted to spend a good six months being willfully unemployed and so I did. I spent my mornings at cafes, days visiting galleries and hiking national parks. With all my free time spent doing fun things and going to interesting places, I wanted to learn how to take photos and document it all.

That was when I bought my first camera – the Fujifilm X-Pro1 (w/ XF35mmF1.4 & XF18mmF2). I started sharing my photos to this brand new app called Instagram, and not long after that, Instagram put me on their suggested user list. My following grew quite significantly because of that and it set me on this path to where I am today.

Fujifilm X-Pro2 with XF35mmF2 R WR – 1/550 – F2 – ISO400


You started with a Fujifilm X-Pro1 and had recently used the X-Pro2. For those not familiar with Fujifilm products, what did you find to be the biggest change between these models and do you think Fujifilm X Series cameras are heading in the right direction?

The first thing I immediately noticed was how quick the autofocus was. Paired with the XF35mmF2 and the XF16-55mmF2.8, the X-Pro2 never missed a beat for the two weeks I was testing it.

[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dHWPaOsrEr4%5D

Some other differences I liked were:

⁃ Dual SD card slots: This feature really brings the camera into the modern professional standard.

⁃ ISO performance was surpassingly good. It was comparable to some of the full frame cameras I’ve used before.

⁃ Megapixels: the extra megapixels (from 16MP to 24MP) meant I could crop heavily in post processing.

⁃ The added weather sealing is a must for me, as I shoot a lot outdoors.

⁃ The subtle button redesign on the back of the camera is great. I can mostly operate the XPro2 with one hand now that the buttons have been moved to the right side of the camera. I think it’s amazing and commendable that Fujifilm has listened to the needs and wants of its customers and made small changes to perfect an already great camera.

Fujifilm X-Pro2 with XF16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR – 1/4700 – F2.8 – ISO200

How do you find social media helps your photography career? Did you find using the Fujifilm Camera Remote App helpful when paired with the X-Pro2?

I started photography around the same time social media really started to pick up. It really played an integral role in growing my career to the point it’s at today. Instagram spurred my interest in photography. It has helped in enhancing my visibility as a photographer. From that visibility, I have met and worked with a lot of amazing people and brands.

Fujifilm X-Pro2 with XF16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR – 1/100 – F2.8 – ISO2500

Best of all, I fully control the distribution of my work and have a direct line to communicate with my audience. I didn’t really get a chance to play around with the Camera Remote App. My workflow is with RAWs, so I prefer the traditional method of editing via computer and transferring to my phone that way.


If you have some advice for someone starting out in photography what would it be?

⁃ Shoot everything and as often as possible

⁃ Explore all types of photography, take note of the genre’s aesthetic of photography that really motivates you and hones in on it.

⁃ Consume and view as much photography and art as you are producing (if not more). This will really help you refine your taste and personal aesthetic.

Fujifilm X-Pro2 with XF16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR – 1/5400 – F2.8 – ISO400


Can you tell us the story behind your favourite image captured using the Fujifilm XF16-55mmF2.8?

This is my favourite photo that I took over the two weeks I had the X-PRO2. It was shot with the XF16-55mmF2.8 on the longer range of the lens. A few friends and I went to the city to shoot some street photography.

Fujifilm X-Pro2 with XF16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR – 1/500 – F2.8 – ISO400

We found this intersection where the sunset light was hitting just right, the buildings had strong character and the rush hour office folks were busily crossing the street trying to get home.

I’m a bit of a bokeh addict and like to blur out my subjects against interesting backdrops. I like how it adds a sense of mystery to the subject. The fast F2.8 aperture on the XF16-55mmF2.8 definitely helped with this effect.

In this particular photo, I like all the layers of the scene, from the blurry man with the hat, the fire truck & the couple, to all the layers of buildings that fill the entire frame. I like how this image has that full; big city feel – kind of like NYC.

I also really like the complimentary colours: fire truck reds, oranges and yellows too!


Based on your style of photography, if you could put any improvements into a future X Series camera what would they include?

I love the size and discreetness of the X-Pro2 and Fujifilm systems in general. You don’t get hassled as much while taking photos out in public and can usually fly under the radar.

I would love improved battery life. I’m often shooting for long periods (both photos and videos) and the latter really seems to chew through batteries.

Another possible feature might be in body stabilisation. It has it’s pro’s and con’s but it would definitely be handy in my use cases. I’m not a fan of tripods and like to be agiler in my photography.

It would also mean that lenses could be made without IS, or possibly even used in conjunction (dual IS).


Do any photographers inspire you to ‘think outside of the square’ and shoot differently?

Other photographers constantly inspire me. I’m just as big as a fan of photography as I like taking photos myself so I’m continuously browsing the work of others.

Although my list of favourite photographers is constantly changing, here are my current favourites:

@benjaminhardman, @mattcherub, @donalboyd, @airpixels@monaris_@visualmemories_@pat_kay@5.12 and @nk7

Fujifilm X-Pro2 with XF16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR – 1/2500 – F2.8 – ISO200

 

Along with the X-Pro2 and XF16-55mmF2.8, you also used the XF35mmF2 lens. What did you find the main difference(s) between the wide angled lens and which lens out of the two did you prefer to shoot with?

It’s hard to beat the lure of a quality zoom lens – especially one that covers the 16-55 range. The convenience of a zoom lens brings versatility to it that allows you to be able to be flexible and react quickly to changing conditions.

If I were to pick one walk around lens out of the two, I would probably go with the XF35mmF2. The XF16-55mmF2.8 is a little heavy and large relative to the compact X-Pro2 body.

The XF35mmF2 is tiny! Coming from a larger DSLR system, using a lens that is this small is kind of mind blowing. Best of all there is no compromise with image quality, speed AND it’s weather sealed. Kind of hard to beat, when it comes to an everyday walk around / travel lens.

Fujifilm X-Pro2 with XF16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR – 1/1250 – F2.8 – ISO400

 

To view more of Benjamin’s work visit his site or visit any of his profile on Instagram or YouTube.

Other interviews in this series

Through A Photographer’s Eye: Drew Hopper

Through A Photographer’s Eye: Alamby Leung

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Ian Tan

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Dale Rogers

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Josselin Cornou

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Chris Hopkins

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Anirban Chatterjee

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Harmeet Gabha

X-Thusiast Featured Photographer Allister Payne

Can you tell us a bit about yourself and where are you from?

 

I’m a Kiwi who has been living in Melbourne now for eight years. I’m a keen cyclist and spend a lot of time riding or racing. Photography gives me a creative outlet that adds to these experiences from cycling and hopefully makes me a little less one-dimensional, as I look to grow and shoot things without two wheels.

 

How did you develop an interest in photography using Fujifilm equipment?

 

I picked up my first Fujifilm camera, an X-T1 with XF35mmF1.4 lens, in Japan while there on holiday a few years ago. It was born out of frustration with the little point-and-shoot I had with me at the time. The X-T1 felt right in my hand and, more importantly, reinvigorated my enjoyment from photography I had lost some years earlier. Photography acts as a creative outlet when I want to step off the bike.

 


Steve Munyard negotiates a tricky section at the Redhill Enduro.
Fujifilm X-T2 with XF16-55mmF2.8

 

How would you describe your photography style and strategy?

 

I think I’m still finding a style I can call my own, to be honest. If you look at my Instagram it’s certainly not a case of every shot looking the same, and I’m OK with that. A lot of my shots are from road cycling races, as I don’t race a lot of that myself. I try to capture the effort of the riders, along with something of the environment these races or rides are part of. Outside of cycling I enjoy event photography where I can be more of a “fly on the wall.”

 

What inspires your photography?

 

I appreciate a pretty broad spectrum of photographic work from fine art, fashion and street right through to sports. A lot of my favourite images come from motocross, skate and surfing, and I’m striving to incorporate these elements into my work.

 


Brendan Canty going on the attack at the 2017 Road Nationals.
Fujifilm X-T2 with XF50-140mmF2.8

 

Where are your favourite places to take photos and do you prefer a certain type of light to photograph in?

I enjoy shooting throughout winter when the light is soft and moody, but a lot of road racing is during the height of summer so it’s a case of working with what I’ve got. With my recent 4×4 vehicle purchase, I’m looking to capture some more Australian scenery and adventure images in the coming year or so.

 

What is your favourite memory from a photography session?

 

I’m probably going through that at the moment preparing for my first group exhibition. It’s forcing me to look at images not as a cyclist who knows the sport, but as someone just appreciating photos – it’s forced me to think more artistically about what I capture and that’s challenging.

 


Thursday nights at Brunswick velodrome bathing in the golden hour.
Fujifilm X-T2 with XF50-140mmF2.8

 

Can you tell us what your favourite Fujifilm camera to use is and why?

 

I use both the X-T1 and X-T2, and can’t get over how much of a jump there is between the two. The focus improvements with the X-T2 have made my success rate significantly higher when trying to grab a particular rider in the bunch or through a turn. The X-T1 gets used more now for details or portraits and as the camera over my shoulder on social rides, although I wouldn’t mind trying out the X70 for this, given its smaller size.

 

Which Fujinon lens or lenses do you prefer to use with your Fujifilm camera and why?

 

My go to lenses are the XF16-55mmF2.8 and the XF50-140mmF2.8 as they are fast to focus and allow me to get close to the action when I can’t physically move or I’m shooting out the window of the race convoy. I also have the XF35mmF2, XF56mmF1.2 and XF23mmF1.4, which I use more outside of cycling.

 


Brunswick velodrome lens flare.
Fujifilm X-T2 with XF50-140mmF2.8

 

What sort of workflow do you use in your photography? Do you shoot in RAW or JPEG?

With the developments in the X-T2, I shoot lossless compressed RAW + JPEG normal. For social use, I send the JPEGs straight to my phone using the Fujifilm Camera Remote App and then for anything else, pull the RAWs into Lightroom. I very seldom find myself going further into Photoshop, but I see this changing as I try to expand my horizons outside of sports.

 

Do you have any technical tips you’d like to share? Perhaps suggestions on the best lighting, shutter speed, white balance, aperture, ISO, etc.? Other preferences?

I think it’s really valuable to just play around with your camera and get to know its capabilities and ergonomics. Use custom buttons to set it so you know exactly what to reach for in a rush when required.

 

For those looking to capture action, spend some time reading the Fujifilm autofocus special site. Certain lenses perform a lot better than others with fast-moving subjects, and the new focus options really open a huge spectrum for capturing action.

 


Cyclocross gets pretty muddy.
Fujifilm X-T1 with XF50-140mmF2.8

 

Do you have advice for new photographers or the next potential X-Thusiast?

 

Given the world of social media now, try not to compare yourself too much to others. Rather, take inspiration from them, and be prepared to fail. We are all developing and changing as our skills and understanding improve, and I think it’s important to enjoy it for the fun of the process. I love that Fujifilm Australia has such a supportive community, and have enjoyed taking part in events over the past year meeting really interesting and like-minded people.

 

 

 

 

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Harmeet Gabha

through-a-photographers-eye

Through a photographer’s eye is the first in a series of interviews featuring Australian photographers. In each interview, we learn about the person behind the camera and how they use Fujifilm X Series cameras to photograph the world around them. Our eighth interview is with Sydney based photographer, Harmeet Gabha.

profile-xf56mm1-4

Harmeet, can you tell us about how you got into photography and why you pursue it?

 

I got into photography in 2005 when a colleague handed me his DSLR to take some pictures at a work cruise. The sun was setting and the Sydney Harbour Bridge was in the backdrop. I took the picture and he showed me the image on the LCD. As soon as I saw that, a spark lit up in my mind and I was hooked. I wanted to capture my own images like that. Later that year I saved up and bought my first Digital Camera a Fujifilm FinePix S5000, a 6 Megapixel camera.

I started taking pictures of friends and family during my travels. The more I photographed the more I realised that the world around me is changing so rapidly. Without images, we have no documented history of our lives. Now as a father, I have so many images of my daughter that when I look back at her early years as an infant, many beautiful memories keep flooding back. The joy and the memories that photography preserves are priceless.

Being able to freeze time with your camera is what keeps me excited about pursuing my passion.

casa-batllo-barcelona

“Casa Balto, Barcelona” – Fujifilm X-T1 – XF18-135mmF3.5-4.8 – ISO 400 – F3.5 – 1/180 second

The advancement in the photography field is just astonishing and, at the same time, I see people being scared and feeling lost when they buy their first camera. I enjoy helping others when they need help and sharing what I have learned throughout my journey. I get a sense of fulfilment when I see that by helping someone I have helped them get to their next level in their own journey. All this keeps me going.

 

After viewing your blog and vlog we see you travel quite a bit, what Fujifilm equipment do you take with you on these trips and why?

 

I’m using an X-T1 and XF18-135mmF3.5-5.6 lens as my primary combo for travel. The camera is absolutely fantastic and the lens is versatile for a lot of shooting situations. I can use it for wide-angle photos through to the telephoto range without having to swap the lens. I can just throw the camera over my shoulder and I go out and shoot. Also being weather resistant I don’t have to worry about the occasional shower.

hobbiton-nz-hdr

“Hobbiton, New Zealand” – Fujifilm X-T1 – XF18-135mmF3.5-4.8 – ISO 400 – F6.4 – 1/2200 second

I also carry in my bag a XF23mmF1.4 which is an awesome prime lens and works beautifully indoors in low light conditions. Coupled with the X-T1 it has such brilliant performance at high ISOs, I can easily push the camera to ISO 3200 and shoot handheld. After dragging 10kg+ backpacks through airports loaded with DSLRs, batteries & lens and a hernia operation something had to change! The X-T1 was the perfect solution and a welcome change on my back.

 

Can you provide some insight into how you best process a RAW image taken by a Fujifilm X-T1? What software do you use and are there any settings you set on the camera for optimal colour?

 

I use Adobe Photoshop Lightroom for processing my RAW files from the X-T1. Lightroom has an easy to use interface that lets me create the final image I want. I always apply the desired camera profile like Vivid or Pro Neg. Hi to my images in Lightroom before proceeding with my edit.

I have tried using Capture One Pro, which a lot of X Series shooters use but it’s too clunky and complex to learn. I have tried using it several times but the User Interface (UI) just puts me off. Additionally, to Lightroom, I use software such as Luminar, Aurora HDR 2017, Photoshop, Google Nik Collection and currently testing On1 Photo Raw.

While shooting in Camera, I mostly shoot RAW+JPEG and I set Velvia as the Film Simulation for the JPEG. I find that the jpegs straight out of the camera are also great for sharing on social media using the WiFi feature of the camera. It’s so convenient and easy! I also enjoy editing RAW images directly on the Fujifilm X-T1.

For HDR (High Dynamic Range) photos, I just turn one mode dial and I am ready to shoot bracketed images. I will import the images for initial adjustments in Lightroom, followed by Aurora HDR 2017, which processes the 3 images to create the final HDR image.

la-sagrada-familia-before

“la sagrada familia – before” – Fujifilm X-T1 – XF18-135mmF3.5-4.8 – ISO 200 – F3.5 – 1/500 second

la-sagrada-familia-after

“la sagrada familia – after” – Fujifilm X-T1 – XF18-135mmF3.5-4.8 – ISO 200 – F3.5 – 1/500 second

So depending what I want to create, I use different tools for processing my RAW images. However, I’d say the majority of them just require Lightroom edits and I’m done.

 

How did you find the transition from your previous camera to Fujifilm mirrorless?

 

As I mentioned earlier, my back thanks me for making the change, however, the transition from Canon DSLRs was a very pleasant surprise. I quickly adapted to the X Series system. All the major controls for image capture are at your fingertips. With the dials and buttons, it makes it easy to setup for any scene. I suppose, what I like about it most is in order to shoot you don’t have to dig into the menus or press multiple buttons to take a photo.

bondi-sculptures

“Bondi Sculptures” – Fujifilm X-T1 – XF18-135mmF3.5-4.8 – ISO 200 – F8 – 2.8 seconds

The Fujifilm X-Trans sensor is brilliant; there is so much detail in the shadows that you can pull out from the RAW file. And I don’t mean just light shadows; I mean really dark almost black areas in the image can be lighted up via RAW processing. Best thing is the image quality is quite clean and noise free. On my previous camera that was not the case, shadows could not be pushed as much as the X-T1 and if you did noise would appear. However, I have to say the X-T1 doesn’t recover highlights as well as my previous camera. So I tend to underexpose my image when I have some bright spots in the image, by doing this I can be confident that shadows can be recovered easily.

 

If you have some advice for someone starting out in photography what would it be?

 

Don’t be scared, just do it (as the Nike ad says). There are so many free resources available online that you will be able to learn and pick up any area of photography very quickly and easily. Google is your best friend; just type in what you are looking for and you’ll find the answer within minutes.

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“la sangrada familia, Barcelona” – Fujifilm X-T1 – XF18-135mmF3.5-4.8 – ISO 800 – F3.5 – 1/50 second

I’m also focusing more on my blog (photoinsomnia.com), by creating content for people just starting out in photography. It’s a resource where they can learn some techniques quickly that will make them more confident and inspired.

 

What sort of misconceptions do you hear (in conversation or online) when talking about mirrorless?

 

I’ve heard two main misconceptions; People think that mirrorless cameras won’t produce as good quality images as a DSLR but the fact is that my X-T1 produces much better images than many DSLRs. In my opinion, on Fujifilm cameras, the colours are richer and real. The sharpness of the images is amazing even at a very shallow depth of field e.g. F1.2 or F1.4.

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“Park Guel, Barcelona” – Fujifilm X-T1 – XF18-135mmF3.5-4.8 – ISO 400 – F8 – 1/400 second

The second one misconception is that the ‘battery life on mirrorless is crap’. I agree that battery life is not as long as DSLR. I get 350-400 images on full charge whereas on a DSLR you can expect 600-700 images. But people forget battery capacity is proportional to its physical size. Smaller camera, smaller battery.

I’ve even taken 600+ images out of one charge with the X-T1 when shooting a Time Lapse sequence, probably because the LCD wasn’t being used and the camera was just firing off images for 30-40mins.

Also, I’d like to point out the benefit of the Electronic View Finder compared to an optical one – “what you see is what you will get”. By having one on the X-T1 you tend to shoot less wasteful frames, you only capture exactly what you want. In a DSLR you will have more throwaway shots, as the mirror will show you one thing while your result might be totally different if you get your settings wrong. But with the X-T1, what you see is what you get, so the shutter is only pressed when you are happy with your settings and what you are seeing through the camera.

 

Being a Fujifilm X-T1 user, where you excited to see the X-T2 arrive and do you think it met your expectations in a newer model?

 

Indeed, it was exciting to see the brand new camera packed with features and improvements released in the X-T2. I attended its launch event in Sydney and had an exclusive opportunity to try out the camera before it hit the market.

It was great to see that Fujifilm was listening to its market and incorporated the feedback to improve the next camera. On the X-T2 dials, it now has a locking mechanism, the camera has a new focus lever, tripod thread position and exposure compensation making an overall improvement to the useability.

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“New Plymouth” – Fujifilm X-T1 – XF18-135mmF3.5-4.8 – ISO 400 – F8 – 1/750 second

They improved the video capabilities of the camera to 4K so people wanting to film can be confident in capturing video. The one thing that still disappoints me is that Fujifilm doesn’t believe much in bracketing features as still you can only bracket -1 & +1 exposures and no more. I would love to see one of the firmware updates to just extend this range.

 

Answer this: If you could have your dream Fujifilm kit, what would it consist of?

 

My dream gear would be an X-T2 with an XF18-135mm lens and an X-Pro2 with an XF23mmF1.4 lens. But for the moment I’m very happy with what I’m using. The camera delivers the results for what I do and is rock solid.

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“Burning Man Sculpture, Reno, Nevarda” – Fujifilm X-T1 – XF18-135mmF3.5-4.8 – ISO 1000 – F3.5 – 1/2400 second

 

To view more of Harmeet’s work visit his blog or visit any of his social channels: Facebook, YouTube, Twitter or Instagram.

Other interviews in this series

Through A Photographer’s Eye: Drew Hopper

Through A Photographer’s Eye: Alamby Leung

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Ian Tan

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Dale Rogers

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Josselin Cornou

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Chris Hopkins

Through a Photographer’s Eye: Anirban Chatterjee

7 Tips For Macro Photography With Fujifilm X Series

Some images are larger than life. Macro photography, at its most technical definition, involves capturing something bigger in your frame than it appears in reality. Think of a tiny bug filling a large print, for instance. But used loosely, macro photography describes anything close to a 1:1 ratio of reproduction.

To get into macro photography with your Fujifilm X Series camera, keep in mind these seven tips.

Purchase a macro lens for larger reproduction.

The easiest way to take macro photos is with a macro lens, which is designed to have a short minimum focus distance. Macro lenses come in different focal lengths, from 50mm to 200mm, and magnify at a large reproduction ratio, though not always 1:1. For the Fujifilm X Series, there is the XF60mmF2.4 R macro lens, which mounts onto each camera in the series.

Experiment with an extension tube.

If you do not feel ready to invest in a macro lens, work with your current lens and add an extension tube, a light-tight accessory that fits between the mount and the lens. By shifting your lens farther from your body, the extension tube allows you to increase magnification. The Fujifilm MCEX-11 and MCEX-16 are built specifically for X Series cameras and attach sturdily to their bodies.

Photo by Ivar Fjeldheim (@ivar_fjeldheim), Fujifilm X-Pro2 with XF90mmF2 R LM WR + MCEX-16

Use ring flash or a softbox.

Flash lighting can be too harsh for many macro photography shots. Instead, shoot with a ring flash or a softbox. If you must use flash lighting, set up a reflector to help you fill light evenly throughout your frame.

Be adventurous with unconventional angles.

Getting your small subject to fill the frame is nice, but don’t let that be the only intriguing element to your shot. Work from different angles. Try filling the frame diagonally with your subject. Shoot with front lighting to emphasise the subject’s colour and with side lighting to emphasise its detail.

Photo by Leigh Diprose, Fujifilm X-A1 with XF60mmF2.4 R Macro – F5.6 – 1/150 second – ISO800

Hold frail photo subjects in place with a clamp.

For macro pics of flowers or other outdoor objects, you may want a way to steady your subject from wind gusts. A plant clamp sometimes called a “plamp,” keeps them in position while you take your shots.

Steady your shot with a remote release.

Great macro photography shows intricate detail on its subject. To get minuscule attributes to appear clearly in the image, you want to avoid camera shake. Use a remote release to reduce the possibility of blur.

Photo by Leigh Diprose, Fujifilm X-T1 with XF60mmF2.4 R Macro – F2.4 – 1/1000 second – ISO200

Stack images to bring focal points into one shot.

Some of the fun in macro photography happens in post-production. Take many pictures of your subject, with the composition maintained in each photo but with slightly different focal points. Then, using software such as Adobe Photoshop, “focus stack” the images to see all of the focal points present in one image.

Photo by Leigh Diprose, Fujifilm X-A1 with XF60mmF2.4 R Macro – F5.6 – 1/170 second – ISO1000

Macro photography takes practise, but with effort and with the right accessories for your X Series system, you will soon have some great big images of the tiniest things.